Nitheesh NH
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) hosted its “Learning from the Researchers” panel on January 28, 2021, in partnership with Runway of Dreams and Gamut Management—the third panel in the CFDA’s four-part “Adaptive Fashion” series. Adaptive fashion refers to clothing and footwear designed to meet the needs of people with disabilities (PWD).
Hosted by Sacha Brown, Director of Professional Development at CFDA, the event brought together a number of leading researchers in the field of adaptive apparel to discuss the trends, challenges, drivers and retail opportunity in the market. Deborah Weinswig, CEO and Founder of Coresight Research, and Erin Schmidt, Senior Analyst at Coresight Research, were among the panelists, moderated by Mindy Scheier, CEO and Founder of nonprofit organization Runway of Dreams, Dr. Kerri McBee-Black, Assistant Teaching Professor at University of Missouri-Columbia, and Dr. Kristen Morris, Assistant Professor at Colorado State University.
In this report, we present five key insights from the panel. We provide details about the panelists at the end of the report.
For more Coresight Research coverage of adaptive apparel in the US, read our free report on market highlights and look out for our upcoming deep dive, Think Tank: US Adaptive Apparel Market.
From left to right, top to bottom: Sacha Brown, Director of Professional Development at CFDA; Dr. Kerri McBee-Black, Assistant Teaching Professor at University of Missouri-Columbia; Deborah Weinswig, CEO and Founder of Coresight Research; Mindy Scheier, CEO and Founder of Runway of Dreams, Erin Schmidt, Senior Analyst at Coresight Research; Dr. Kristen Morris, Assistant Professor at Colorado State University
Source: CFDA/Coresight Research[/caption] 2. Beyond the Product: Improving the Shopping Experience for People with Disabilities The panelists discussed how retailers must take the specific needs of PWD into account when researching, designing and developing products. This will “create more meaningful products and solutions,” according to Morris. However, the adaptive market goes beyond the product, and retailers should assess whether the experiences they are providing in their physical stores cater to different types of consumers—including those with various disabilities. Weinswig advised that all elements of the in-store shopping journey should be evaluated and adapted where necessary, from the fitting rooms to the layout of aisles and registers—considering space concerns to accommodate wheelchairs, for example. Furthermore, advertising and marketing often overlooks consumers with disabilities. Retailers can leverage additional modes of communication to improve the accessibility of products. This could include more descriptive product details, audible product information online or user-friendly interactive experiences in-store. [caption id="attachment_122973" align="aligncenter" width="520"]
Source: ADA.gov[/caption]
3. Market Headwinds: Lack of Awareness and Consistency
Currently, the adaptive apparel market is underserved: In the US, 41.1 million people—12.5% of the population—reported a disability in 2019, according to the US Census Bureau, but the number of PWD that have access to high-quality, functional and affordable adaptive clothing is very small in comparison to those who need it. According to McBee-Black, this is due to two reasons: lack of awareness and lack of consistency.
McBee-Black told the panel that the disability community has been historically overlooked in retail as there is a lack of awareness among retailers of consumer needs. Without this, there has been little research into the ways in which brands and retailers can appeal and effectively advertise to consumers with disabilities—so retailers’ spending data is primitive for consumers in this category. This means there is a large, untapped consumer base for retailers to appeal to.
The lack of consistency is something that has hurt some retailers’ push into the adaptive fashion market, McBee-Black explained. The terminology used to describe clothing and footwear designed for PWD varies between retailers, adding confusion for consumers and retailers alike. The definition of “disability” is also understood and used differently by each retailer, which has led to a widely accepted misnomer that disability clothing cannot be mass produced, McBee-Black said. The positive news is that products can be designed for one disability and many can benefit.
4. Breaking Down Barriers for People with Disabilities
PWD have some of the highest unemployment rates of any demographic: Around four in five PWD are unemployed, according to McBee-Black. She said that her research found that PWD do not pursue certain job opportunities due to requirements for professional dress, as they do not own suitable attire. Individuals also reported that a lack of appropriate attire has caused them to opt out of social engagements, including parties and other events. Offering adaptive clothing will help to break down the barriers for PWD to access employment opportunities or attend social events.
The significance of apparel to the lives of PWD emphasizes the necessity for retailers to create these products. Retailers must adapt to provide clothing that allows for greater movement, comfort and style, while being appropriate for particular situations—such as job interviews. This will enable retailers to sell to an untapped consumer base, and clothing that helps PWD feel more confident in themselves is likely to lead them to become loyal customers of that retailer.
5. Elevator Pitch for Adaptive Apparel
Panelists were asked to provide a 30-second elevator pitch for why retailers should innovate and create adaptive products for PWD. Below, we summarize insights from the panelists about the adaptive apparel industry.
McBee-Black: PWD have largely been ignored in spite of rising demand. This means that consumers within this group are hungry to spend on products that work and will remain very loyal to those brands.
Morris: In order to create the most successful products, PWD must be brought holistically into the production process. This includes leadership, design and other production processes.
Schmidt: Adaptive apparel is still in its infant stages, meaning there is a large growth opportunity within the industry. Adaptive apparel allows retailers to appeal to a new consumer base that has thus far been unserved.
Weinswig: The market for adaptive apparel is not only huge in the US but applies to consumers globally. Currently, the demand for these adaptive products far exceeds supply, meaning that retailers that are able to innovate quickly will reap the greatest benefits.
CFDA on Adaptive Fashion: Learning from the Researchers—Five Key Insights
1. Adaptive Apparel Is a White-Space Retail Opportunity Coresight Research believes that the adaptive apparel market has the opportunity to increase and expand in breadth and depth from today’s market. The underserved adaptive market can expand across multiple categories, including luxury, mass merchandise and discount retail. Schmidt emphasized that people “want to be able to wear a Louis Vuitton backpack that fits on a wheelchair or Nordstrom shoes in different sizes.” She added, “Whatever their favorite store is, consumers with disabilities want to be able to shop there.” Scheier explained that part of the white-space opportunity is that the adaptive consumer is typically a loyal one: For many PWD, finding clothing items that effectively cater to their specific needs can be extremely challenging, so “once they find something they like, they stick with it,” Scheier said. In addition to attracting customers through functional product offerings, appealing to their social values is becoming essential for brands and retailers in the current environment. We have seen a rise in “conscious consumers”—those who care about the retailers they shop from having positive environmental and social impacts—over the last few years. Consumers are increasingly expecting brands and retailers to take a stand, and diversity and inclusion are at the forefront. The panelists emphasized that brands and retailers that do not innovate to meet social expectations will feel pressure from consumers: Adaptive apparel offerings could present a key opportunity for brands and retailers to demonstrate inclusivity and thus align with consumer values. [caption id="attachment_122972" align="aligncenter" width="700"] From left to right, top to bottom: Sacha Brown, Director of Professional Development at CFDA; Dr. Kerri McBee-Black, Assistant Teaching Professor at University of Missouri-Columbia; Deborah Weinswig, CEO and Founder of Coresight Research; Mindy Scheier, CEO and Founder of Runway of Dreams, Erin Schmidt, Senior Analyst at Coresight Research; Dr. Kristen Morris, Assistant Professor at Colorado State UniversitySource: CFDA/Coresight Research[/caption] 2. Beyond the Product: Improving the Shopping Experience for People with Disabilities The panelists discussed how retailers must take the specific needs of PWD into account when researching, designing and developing products. This will “create more meaningful products and solutions,” according to Morris. However, the adaptive market goes beyond the product, and retailers should assess whether the experiences they are providing in their physical stores cater to different types of consumers—including those with various disabilities. Weinswig advised that all elements of the in-store shopping journey should be evaluated and adapted where necessary, from the fitting rooms to the layout of aisles and registers—considering space concerns to accommodate wheelchairs, for example. Furthermore, advertising and marketing often overlooks consumers with disabilities. Retailers can leverage additional modes of communication to improve the accessibility of products. This could include more descriptive product details, audible product information online or user-friendly interactive experiences in-store. [caption id="attachment_122973" align="aligncenter" width="520"]
Source: ADA.gov[/caption]
3. Market Headwinds: Lack of Awareness and Consistency
Currently, the adaptive apparel market is underserved: In the US, 41.1 million people—12.5% of the population—reported a disability in 2019, according to the US Census Bureau, but the number of PWD that have access to high-quality, functional and affordable adaptive clothing is very small in comparison to those who need it. According to McBee-Black, this is due to two reasons: lack of awareness and lack of consistency.
McBee-Black told the panel that the disability community has been historically overlooked in retail as there is a lack of awareness among retailers of consumer needs. Without this, there has been little research into the ways in which brands and retailers can appeal and effectively advertise to consumers with disabilities—so retailers’ spending data is primitive for consumers in this category. This means there is a large, untapped consumer base for retailers to appeal to.
The lack of consistency is something that has hurt some retailers’ push into the adaptive fashion market, McBee-Black explained. The terminology used to describe clothing and footwear designed for PWD varies between retailers, adding confusion for consumers and retailers alike. The definition of “disability” is also understood and used differently by each retailer, which has led to a widely accepted misnomer that disability clothing cannot be mass produced, McBee-Black said. The positive news is that products can be designed for one disability and many can benefit.
4. Breaking Down Barriers for People with Disabilities
PWD have some of the highest unemployment rates of any demographic: Around four in five PWD are unemployed, according to McBee-Black. She said that her research found that PWD do not pursue certain job opportunities due to requirements for professional dress, as they do not own suitable attire. Individuals also reported that a lack of appropriate attire has caused them to opt out of social engagements, including parties and other events. Offering adaptive clothing will help to break down the barriers for PWD to access employment opportunities or attend social events.
The significance of apparel to the lives of PWD emphasizes the necessity for retailers to create these products. Retailers must adapt to provide clothing that allows for greater movement, comfort and style, while being appropriate for particular situations—such as job interviews. This will enable retailers to sell to an untapped consumer base, and clothing that helps PWD feel more confident in themselves is likely to lead them to become loyal customers of that retailer.
5. Elevator Pitch for Adaptive Apparel
Panelists were asked to provide a 30-second elevator pitch for why retailers should innovate and create adaptive products for PWD. Below, we summarize insights from the panelists about the adaptive apparel industry.
McBee-Black: PWD have largely been ignored in spite of rising demand. This means that consumers within this group are hungry to spend on products that work and will remain very loyal to those brands.
Morris: In order to create the most successful products, PWD must be brought holistically into the production process. This includes leadership, design and other production processes.
Schmidt: Adaptive apparel is still in its infant stages, meaning there is a large growth opportunity within the industry. Adaptive apparel allows retailers to appeal to a new consumer base that has thus far been unserved.
Weinswig: The market for adaptive apparel is not only huge in the US but applies to consumers globally. Currently, the demand for these adaptive products far exceeds supply, meaning that retailers that are able to innovate quickly will reap the greatest benefits.
Panelists
The panel was hosted by CFDA and moderated by Sacha Brown, Director of Professional Development. Alongside Brown, Deborah Weinswig, CEO and Founder of Coresight Research, and Erin Schmidt, Senior Analyst at Coresight Research, were joined by three panelists:- Mindy Scheier is the Founder and CEO of Runway of Dreams, a non-profit aimed at bridging the gap between those with disabilities and the fashion industry. She is also the CEO of Gamut Management, which restructures the way PWD are marketed to and viewed in the media.
- Dr. Kerri McBee-Black is an Assistant Teaching Professor at University of Missouri-Columbia. She teaches in product development. Her research focus is on the barriers that PWD face, including the role of clothing. She was motivated by hearing PWD report that they had missed parties, interviews and other important life events because their wardrobe was not suitable for the occasion.
- Dr. Kristen Morris is an Assistant Professor at Colorado State University, teaching product development. She has seven years of freelance experience in product development. Her area of research is focused on using advanced design for clothing. She has a passion for serving underserved communities, such as the opportunity in the adaptive fashion market.